Power Windows and Sunroof Troubleshooting
Find out why the windows or sunroof have stopped working, from the shared fuse and circuit breaker to a single motor.
Based on the four-door power window circuit and the sunroof circuit in the factory manual. The windows and the sunroof share a fuse, so a fault on one can show up on the other.
What is not working?
Pick the closest match.
Everything is dead: the shared feed
The windows and the sunroof come off the same feed, so a loss of both means look there first.
- Check fuse 17 (30 A). It feeds both the sunroof and the power windows.
- The window circuit also has its own 25 A circuit breaker. If the windows work after a pause and then stop again, the breaker is tripping, usually because a window is binding and pulling too much current.
- On the wiring, the feed passes through a power distribution connector (C302, terminal Q) before it splits to the windows and sunroof. A dirty or loose connector there causes a total loss.
- Test with the key in RUN. Fuse 17 is only live in RUN, because it is fed through unloader relay K5, which also cuts it while the starter is cranking. With the key off there is no power, and that is normal.
Wiring and help: Power windows, 4 door · Sunroof · Fuse and relay finder
One window dead, slow or sticking
If the other windows work, the feed and fuse are fine. The problem is at that window.
- Listen at the door. A motor that hums but does not lift the glass points at the regulator. A silent motor points at the switch, wiring or motor.
- Test the other switch for that window, if there is one (the console switch and the door switch). If one works and one does not, the faulty one is the switch.
- Check the wiring in the rubber boot between the door and the body for a broken wire.
- Test the motor by giving it 12 V directly, and swap the polarity to run it the other way.
Wiring and help: Power windows, 4 door
Rear windows do not work from their switches
The rear windows have a lockout (child safety) switch in their feed, so check that first.
- Press the rear window lockout switch on the console and try again. If it is on, the rear switches are cut off.
- The feed to the rear switches passes through that safety switch. Check that it has power on both sides, and that its contacts work.
- If the console switches still work and the door switches do not, check the wiring through the rear door boot.
Wiring and help: Power windows, 4 door (LH) · Power windows, 4 door (RH)
Only the sunroof does not work
The sunroof shares fuse 17 with the windows. If the windows work, the fuse is fine and the fault is in the sunroof's own circuit.
- A sunroof switch that lights up but the roof does not move points at the motor or its relay. A switch that does nothing points at the switch or its ground.
- The switch is grounded at G600. Check that ground and the feed to the switch.
- The factory diagram shows the motor is driven through an alternating latch relay, and the motor has a travel limit switch. A sticking relay or a limit switch that thinks the roof is at its stop stops the motor.
- To close a stuck sunroof by hand, many motors have a hex socket you can turn with a key. Find the one on your car's motor.
Wiring and help: Sunroof
Most likely cause
Likely cause: fuse 17
Replace it with a 30 A fuse and try again.
- If it blows again, a motor is pulling too much current or a wire is shorted. Disconnect each window motor and the sunroof in turn to find which one.
- A window that binds in its channel is a common cause.
Most likely cause
Likely cause: a binding window tripping the circuit breaker
The breaker is doing its job. Something is drawing too much current.
- Find the window that is stiff or slow and free it: lubricate the channels and the regulator, and check the glass runs freely.
- Replace the circuit breaker if it trips without a load.
Wiring and help: Power windows, 4 door
Most likely cause
Likely cause: a break in the feed or ground
Power does not reach the switch or motor, or it has no ground.
- Follow the feed from the fuse through the connector C302 to the splice and the circuit breaker, then to the switch.
- Check the grounds: the window switches ground through a splice to G200, and the sunroof switch to G600.
Wiring and help: Ground points guide
Most likely cause
Likely cause: a worn switch
The contacts inside the switch are worn or dirty.
- Clean the contacts, or replace the switch.
- While you have it out, check the plug for heat damage and a loose terminal.
Most likely cause
Likely cause: broken wire in the door boot
The wires flex every time the door opens and fatigue.
- Open the boot and inspect the wires. Repair any break with a crimped or soldered joint and heat-shrink.
- Check the door ground wire as well.
Wiring and help: Repairing old harness and connectors
Most likely cause
Likely cause: window regulator or channel
The motor runs, but the glass does not move properly.
- Lubricate the channels and the regulator, and check the glass is not bent or jammed.
- Replace the regulator if its cable or arms are worn or broken.
Most likely cause
Likely cause: the motor
The motor does not run even with direct power.
- Replace the motor, or the motor and regulator assembly.
- Check the fuse and circuit breaker afterwards, in case a seizing motor damaged them.
Written from the factory wiring diagrams on this site and general diagnostic practice. Voltages, resistances and pressures are typical figures, so confirm them against your car's manual. Take care with fuel, high voltage and the battery.